Shedding Problems

  Quality Captive Bred Burmese Pythons

Ecdysis is the process of shedding skin, and the process varies among different groups of reptiles. Crocodilians and chelonians shed their skin continuously in tiny pieces while snakes and lizards shed periodically. Pythons should shed their skin in one complete piece.

The frequency and state of ecdysis among squamates (lizards and snakes) is determined by species, age, nutrition, parasite load, hormones, temperature, humidity, presence of external pathogens or parasites, infection, and reproductive status. A well maintained captive python should shed anywhere between once a month and three times a year depending on age etc... A 3 year old Burmese who is fed a moderate diet can be expected to shed about once a month to twice every three months.

Why isn't a Burmese Python shedding in one piece?
Problems with normal shedding are referred to as "dysecdysis". This is a relatively common shedding problem and doesn't constitute any kind of an emergency. If you have a snake that's having difficulty shedding, it indicates a problem with any one of the following factors:

1. malnutrition
2. external or internal parasitism
3. illness or inflammation somewhere (could be internal)
4. excessively dry habitat
5. cleaning chemicals on the surface
6. trauma & old injuries
7. thyroid disease (hypothyroidism or hyperthyroidism)
8. inflammation in the head region
9. neoplasia (cancer)

Dysecdysis can present as harmlessly as a small retained piece of old skin or as abscesses, blisters, calluses, cysts, or areas of haemorrhage. Treatment depends on the severity of the condition but most cases concern pieces of dry retained skin. Unless this skin is an eye-cap, it causes the snake no harm if it stayed on until the next shed. If after the next shed, there is still retained skin… treatment should be offered.

To remove retained skin:
 

1. Soak the snake for a minimum of 30 minutes in 90F water. Alternatively you can place the snake inside a pillowcase/snake sack and then wet the bag with 90F water. Leave the snake inside the wet bag for a minimum of 30 minutes. Be sure the temp does not get too cool for the snake.
2. Use a soft towel to dry off the snake, let the snake gently squeeze through the towel around any stubborn spots - the skin should come off quite easily. If it doesn't, don't force it - just repeat the procedure in a few days.
3. Raise the humidity of the snake's enclosure - but remember that humidity can also be an enemy. Care should be taken to ensure an aseptic environment where bacteria can't flourish and promote scale/mouth rot, and or other toxic problems. While humidity is often blamed for dysecdysis, it is rarely the sole cause - my Burmese always shed in one complete piece and I don't keep the humidity much above 10%.

If the stuck piece of skin is an eye-cap:

It is important for the cap to come off because it can irritate the snake quite a bit, often causing them to rub their eyes on the enclosure. When this happens, it sometimes results in a dented eye cap or a deeply scratched eye cap which can take many sheds (a year or more) to repair. While your snake doesn't really rely on its vision, YOU do in that you don't want to spook them.

To remove retained eye-caps:

Many people use scotch tape, it will work most of the time when the eye cap is just barely attached. However, many cases involve enough eye cap that the tape just doesn't pull enough - and this is a GOOD thing! Never force any skin to come off of a snake, especially the eye cap.

The best way I've found to release stubborn eye caps is to apply mineral oil to the eye with a Q-tip twice a day. If your snake is a big nervous wimp, I recommend having someone assist you, sometimes they get scared when you mess with their eyes.

If this doesn't work, soak the snake for at least an hour in 90F water with very little room for air... the snake should be passively forced to move its head under water while it scouts around for a possible escape. Immediately following the soaking use a soft cloth to gently rub over the places of retained shed - they should come off unless it's a super stubborn eye cap. In that most stubborn case, use mineral oil right after the soaking and keep trying.

If all else fails there are a couple good ophthalmologic ointments I know of that are available that can help, if this is the case just ask and I'll refer you to a veterinarian who can get you some.

Preventing dysecdysis:
 

In this case, prevention beats treating the problem! Try to provide the snake with the ideal conditions so that he/she always sheds in one piece!

• Feed only apparently healthy prey animals that are parasite free, and feed in appropriate quantities.

• Make sure your python's cage has a range of temperature - 90F to 75F and that all of the cage is equally usable.

• Mist the snake for the last two days of the shed cycle. (Start misting one day after the skin changes from foggy to clear)

• Periodically have your snake's faeces examined by a veterinarian and follow treatment protocols closely to eradicate parasites efficiently.

• Make certain your collection is free of all mites and other external parasites.

• Avoid using powerful disinfectants when cleaning the cage and rinse well after use.
   

Below is an image that depicts the shedding timeline quite nicely. Please only use it for personal information as it is copyrighted material (Mader, D.R. Reptile Medicine and Surgery. Philidelphia, 1996. p 106.)!

This site is © Copyright Chris Eagleton 2004-2005, All Rights Reserved